mudjacking

 Concrete sidewalks can vary in shapes, colors and be formed into any shape you are able to imagine. Prior to starting on this project, shop around at other homes and businesses to see what can be carried out but don't be limited by that which you see. Use your imagination. Colored concrete is available today from most Redi-mix suppliers and concrete color stains are also another way to acquire a lovely finished product. You will find "cast-on" products out there that can provide a non-slip surface, an excellent hard surface and even anti-spalling mudjacking that help keep the sidewalk from chipping as a result of utilization of winter salt. Most redi-mix concrete dries in certain shade of beige color depending on the color if the sand and Portland cement used. Ask your supplier where he's poured his product and go look at it. This will provide you with a concept of what the "aged" product will look like later. After you have decided what color concrete you will use, decide what strength concrete you need. I will suggest the utilization of 3000# strength concrete for all sidewalks except very heavy use or vehicle traffic. If vehicles will undoubtedly be crossing the sidewalk, use 4000# or 5000#. It will surely cost several dollars more a lawn, but will last a good deal longer.

TOOLS REQUIRED-

Hammer, sledge, string line, and level with tripod. 4' hand level, pointed and flat shovels, wood 2x4 for screeding (leveling) of the concrete, bolt cutters, safety glasses, work gloves, fine broom and two edger's called sidewalk edger's and v-groove styles. A steel sidewalk edge finishing tool, a V-groove tool for center joints and a material trowel are a must. Most masons prefer to employ a magnesium float to put the initial finish on the walks just before applying the final broom finish.

MATERIALS REQUIRED-

Concrete is ordered by the cubic yard. It is quite easy to figure out how many yards you'll need for your project utilizing the following formula: Length x Width x Height (thickness) divided by 27 =? Cubic yards. A normal example: Your sidewalk is 3' wide, 3-0 feet long by 4" thick. Using the formula above: 3' x 30'x.33 /27=1.1 cubic yards. You cannot order.1 cubic yards. Therefore it is either 1 or 1.5 yards. All Redi-mix companies charge what they call a quick load charge for anything under 6 yards. So are there choices here to be made. Is there other things that really needs concrete? Make the walk only a little wider? Add a patio area? Ask the Redi-mix company what the charge is for 1.5 or 2 yards. The purchase price may be the same anyway. While we here, I want to spend a moment discussing having the concrete to your site. Trucks are heavy. Very heavy. If your sidewalk or patio is in a corner yard, either the truck must manage to get to it or you will need to wheel it in wheelbarrows. Wheeling 1 yard isn't bad, wheeling 5 or 6 yards is just a brute. You will require a lot of help and good wheelbarrows. Redi-mix companies also charge extra for any time spent over 1 hour on site. IF you decide to take the truck into a corner yard, be prepared for lawn damage. Concrete companies aren't accountable for injury to your property if you direct them to drive within the lawn. Even worse is if they pass within the septic system, buried pipes, etc. and damage them. BE SURE there is nothing underneath that can de damaged. Don't guess!

A Redi-Mix truck can weigh over 40,000 pounds! It will leave a lasting impression on your own lawn and may harm lightweight asphalt driveways. Be mindful where you return it.

You will require some misc. mixed lumber to make your concrete walk. 2x4's in long lengths work best. When you yourself have a curve in the walk, it is most beneficial formed using strips of non-tempered masonite or 1/4" plywood. Anything you use, it does not need to be pretty. It is going to be removed after the pour. Buy a deal of 1"x2" or 1"x3" for stakes. These can be cut into 1 foot lengths and points cut on them. You will even need several pounds of 8 penny common nails.

LAYOUT-

The easiest way to layout a fresh sidewalk is by using your garden hose. Simply lay the hose out on the floor where you would like the walk to go. Forms do not need to be made from wood. Things such as for example brick, wood edging, pre-formed plastic edging are typical used and produce numerous edge finishes. If you are using these kind of things, simply take extra care not to splash concrete on them. Concrete stains or discolors quickly and does not wash off well. When everything dries, the concrete you believe you washed off, leaves a permanent stain. Another beneficial item available today for homeowner use is ugly paint at most hardware or box stores and comes in a variety of colors. This helps it be quite simple to spray a layout line for digging or removing sod or soil. DO NOT spray your hose if you don't are interested to be that color for a lengthy time. A couple of carefully placed spots that you connect after removing the hose is fine.

Ensure that you mark out the lines several inches wider than the finished walk width. You'll need to truly get your 2 x4's and stakes inside the excavation and in most cases flush with the surrounding ground. If you will expose the edges of the newest walk above ground, you'll also need to finish the edges whenever you pour.

GROUND PREPARATION-

Never, never place concrete on frozen ground or mud. You'll need a firm foundation base for the newest walk. You need to eliminate the concrete thickness of earth plus the stone you will undoubtedly be placing underneath. A 4" walk usually gets 4" of stone base or good clean run-of bank sand and gravel. After removing the 8" of earth, place your sub-base material and tamp into place. Make it slightly wider than you walk width. Your forms will lay on the top of base. NOTE: Now is the time for you to run any yard lighting wires or conduits beneath the walk before you pour. Even though the lighting is later on, you will undoubtedly be glad you make mudjacking now. Place an item of 1" PVC conduit with caps beneath the walk for future use.