The decorative arts reached an very high level in terms of quality and elegance during the 18th Century. Jewellery was in no way an exception. It had been the French who led the way in which with a number of influential Parisian jewellery makers setting new world standards Ashes into Jewellery.
Jewellery of the day was created for two distinct occasions: that that has been worn with informal clothing through the day and the more ornamental jewellery that has been worn with formal attire at evening functions. The emphasis during the time was on the gemstones rather than the settings themselves. It had been at about this time that the art of stone faceting had improved significantly thereby showing off the utmost beauty of diamonds and coloured gemstones.
Having mastered the cutting techniques required to boost the amount of sparkle, the jewellers of the 18th century also go about improving the vibrant colours of the coloured jewels themselves. This they did by introducing high quality 'foiling' techniques and by tinting diamonds and other gemstones. Such was the amount of their craftsmanship that numerous Parisian jewellers were interested in benefit foreign firms in Spain, Germany, Denmark and elsewhere thereby making their influence truly international in scope.
The popularity of insect and butterfly designs from the last century were brought current and improved upon and asymmetrical designs were adopted for the initial time. Beautiful floral designs and more intricate ribbon work became a favorite feature with this period. A few of the designs resembled furnishing ideas of that time period - curtain motifs and upholstery trimmings can be seen as a feature in much of the jewellery. Memorial jewellery also became a favorite feature of daytime jewellery. Brooches, rings and pendants often contained the plaited hair of loved ones and was featured in items of jewellery with black enamel and white seed pearls. Personal inscriptions were often carefully engraved with loving messages. It had been in this period that the idea of the 'dearest' or 'regard' jewellery evolved. Pendants, rings or brooches were made using precious stones whose first letter spelt out a secret message to a loved one. As an example "D E A R E S T" became the imbedded message in a ring that has been set with Diamond, Emerald, Amethyst, Ruby, Emerald, Sapphire, Tourmaline ... for the reason that specific order!
Even the more affordable components of 'costume' jewellery in the 18th century were graced with exactly the same flair and elegance as their higher priced counterparts. Garnets, for example, were foiled to resemble bright red rubies and precious metal substitutes were introduced like 'pinchbeck' - a gilt metal resembling gold - that has been invented with a London watchmaker. In Switzerland laws were built to restrict 'excesses in extravagance' and so the utilization of diamonds in jewellery became illegal for a period. In 1760 marcasite and cut steel became a favorite substitute. Birmingham's renowned industrialist, Matthew Boulton, specialised in the utilization of these materials in earrings, pendants, brooches, rings, buckles dress combs etc.
In my next article I'll take a peek at jewellery during the Victorian period - that's from 1837 to the end of the Century. By this time there had been a complete change in both fashion and mood!
As a small family run business Paul Wright Jewelley has exhibited its handcrafted silver and gold jewellery through the entire United Kingdom since 1995 at important international events including the Badminton and Burghley Horse Trials, the Royal Show, the Royal Highland Show and other large country events Ashes into Jewellery.
Handmade Silver Jewellery
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